The Bell Towers of Rab
When I was asked if I wanted to take part in a press trip to Rab, I was somewhat perplexed, firstly where, who or what is a Rab? The name didn’t offer any clues, it wasn’t Arabic, Spanish or of a Caribbean nature. Research was obviously required so I set to work interrogating the internet; the first results were rather discouraging.
It would appear that Goli Otok meaning Naked Island referring to the lack of foliage rather than the prevalence of naturism in those parts, lies just to the north of Rab. It was the most infamous political prison in Yugosalvia, built in 1948 after Tito broke with the Soviet Union, the prison was seen as necessary to house supporters of Stalinist regime. Also adjacent to Rab is the Island of Sveti Grgur (St. Gregory) an infamous women’s prison. To really jolly up the party, the town of Kampur on Rab itself used to host a concentration camp dating from the Second World War. I thought long and hard about the invitation.
I soon discovered that Rab is an Island in the Kvarner Group of the Dalmatian Islands in the northern Adriatic and forming part of the Republic of Croatia. It is 22km long and 11km wide at its extremes. The main town is Rab itself accounting for half of the Islands population of almost 10,000 souls. The principle industry is tourism, in fact apart from a few fishermen and the odd goat or chicken herd it is the only industry.
The airports of Rijeka, Zadar and Pula, serviced by airlines from the UK are lengthy drives from the ferry port of Jablanac the main crossing point, Rijeka the closest is 102km away. A state run catamaran service runs form Rijeka to Rab, but there is only one sailing a day and it is susceptible to cancellation if there is any sort of a sea running. The prospects of Rab taking off as a tourist Mecca were diminishing the more my research continued, I decided to stop surfing for information and sent off an email accepting the offer.
Rijeka Airport is on the Island of Krk and a left over from Croatia’s austere communist days, nothing more than a hollow concrete block with a few windows piercing the shell a cold structure with all the joy of a closed pub. The Airbus I arrived on was the only aircraft at the airport apart from a rather sorry looking F-84 Thunderjet and a t=33 Shooting Star both well into terminal decay. The United States supplied 219 Thunderjets to the Yugoslav Air Force in the early 1950’s, a controversial decision at the time.
It was with mixed feeling that I sat in Imperial Hotel’s shuttle bus looking out over the northern Adriatic and the barren desolate islands. I had been warned about Croatian drivers, prone to tailgating and aggressive overtaking reminiscent of the Malaga Ring Road, however in reality they drive at a moderate speed whilst maintaining good lane discipline, it is obligatory to drive with headlights on, night and day.
A winding decent took the bus into the town of Jablanac, a pretty little harbour with stone red-roofed buildings and crystal clear water; it was in marked contrast to the desolate spectacle of Rab, a twelve minute ferry ride away. Low lying hills virtually devoid of vegetation, the white stone reflecting a fierce sun more like the Saharan landscape than the Adriatic. The north wind or Bora lays up salt deposits on this side of the Island preventing the growth of all but the hardiest and dowdiest of plants.
The ferry Sv. Grgur ploughed its way across Velebitski Kanal towards Mišnjak, Rab’s southern most port. The barren landscape continued subduing the spirits of occupants of the mini-bus, glum faces peered through the dusty windows as the bus drove down the small exit ramp and onto the Island.
As the towns of Barbat and Banjol sped past so the vegetation became greener Holm Oaks, Century Cacti and Palm Trees covered the landscape. The sigh of relief amongst the passengers was audible, the closer to the Town of Rab the more luxuriant became the vegetation. The flora reflected the exuberance of the Mediterranean and the olive drab of northern Europe, all things to all Europeans.
The main town on the Island is Rab itself, a town of two halves, modern residential Rab which accounts for almost half of the Island’s population of 10,000 souls, but it is the old town which is the jewel in this Adriatic crown. Built over Roman remains and on the western side of the harbour, the Old Town is a separate entity with its unique skyline of four bell towers all appearing to be struggling for prominence. To the east is the Holm Oak forested Komrčar Park which acts as a buffer, keeping modern Rab at arms length.
The Old Town of Rab is spotless, as if purged by some huge nocturnal pressure washer! The standard of cleanliness is such that seagulls give the town a miss and head for less fastidious landfalls squawking their displeasure as they fly over at medium altitude. The three main thoroughfares Donja Ulica, Srednja Ulica and Gornja Ullica, lower, middle and upper street. A confluence of tiny streets loosely aligned to these three main thoroughfares host many small shops, restaurants and bars, hand made jewellery is sold from stalls which spring up around Sv Kristofor (St. Christopher) Square at nightfall.
Croatia is rich in legend and Rab is no exception, a rather interesting one concerns a youth named Kalifont who fell in love with the Shepherdess of Draga. Not the usual tale of unrequited love, it was most certainly requited so much so that the Gods banished Kalifont to the Oak forests which he was doomed to walk until he became assimilated with the trees. His forlorn arboreal likeness now sits in St. Christopher Square staring fixedly at a fountain bearing the likeness of the amorous young Shepherdess, highly unlikely but great fun.
It is not necessary to speak Croatian on the Island but a working knowledge of German would be a distinct advantage. Figures supplied by Kristijana Ribarić, President of the City of Rab Tourist Board show that Germans visitors form over 40% of all tourists, while guests from the British Isles were heaped in the 2% of also-rans, rather like our national sports teams!
Many restaurants cater for German tastes especially those situated around the main squares, this is a pity as the local cuisine is an integral part of the Rab experience! Seafood from the clear Adriatic, grilled meats with delicious piquant sources, the cured hams can rival any of the Iberian verities whilst the sheep’s cheese complemented by fresh black olives is a superb way to round off any meal. So don’t settle on the more obvious eating houses, don walking boots and rummage through the small back streets, watch where the locals eat, you will receive wonderful food and a warm welcome.
Whilst in the Old Town I had the immense pleasure of meeting Zoran Marčić, as a young man of 20 he fought with Tito’s partisans, righting the wrong of the incarceration of his parents and two brothers in the Kampur concentration camp. One of his anecdotes centred around three British agents put ashore on Rab in 1943, closeted in the house of Sersic Ivan close to St. Christopher Square which the occupying Germans used as a parade ground. It was decided to move the agents, to this end they were dressed as abattoir workers their radio hidden on a donkey, they were marched passed the drilling soldiers and taken to the village of Palit.
One rather interesting association with the Island is the familiar St. Christopher, not only the patron saint of travellers but also the guardian of Rab, a busy chap. In the catacomb of St. Justine’s Church a small collection of interesting relics are held including the skull of our industrious saint. It appears that when the Island was under siege from the Normans St. Christopher turned the arrows of the invaders onto themselves, saving the Island. The skull has not been carbon dated the custodians do not believe it is necessary, why spoil a good story.
Away from the main town other resorts such as Banjol, Barbat and Lopar to the north offer a variety of activities including bathing, costumes optional, walking and cycling. The terrain ranges from the flat to the mountainous, so bicycle paths reflect this from the easy going to just plain silly. Diving is well catered for as you would expect with the crystal clear water and the graceful schooners and barques of the diving schools are regular visitors to the Island.
The secluded bays with crystal clear water offer superb bathing and the Island has a long tradition of naturism. In 1936 when Edward VIII and Mrs Simpson visited the island they were reported to have indulged in nude bathing at Kandarola Bay, however after an exhaustive search no photographic evidence could be found!
A small flotilla of craft offer boat trips around Rab and the adjacent Islands, these can be seen leaving each morning awash with waving arms and legs. The boats range from sleek modern floating gin palaces to old and listing derelicts chugging their way worryingly to the open waters of the Adriatic. However it was pleasant enough to walk by the harbour in the early evening, full of bonhomie, good food and wine reading the boat’s bill boards and selecting a trip for the next morning. It is advisable not to have too much to drink however as you could find yourself as a cabin boy on a tramp steamer headed for Montevideo.
Tourism is well established on the Island and the City of Rab Tourist Board is a professional and capable organisation which regards the industry with the utmost importance, not only because it is the mainstay of the Island but they also understand just how important the annual or biannual break is to the many individuals who holiday on the Island. The entry of Croatia in the European Union in 2009 also commemorates the 120th year of tourism. It was in 1889 that the local council of Rab decided to gear up for touism and work began on the first hotels.
Modern Rab is undoubtedly a tourist destination; with a permanent population of 10,000 it has 30,000 tourist beds across all sectors. Many of the islanders work in the tourist industry from May until October, returning to secondary occupations in the winter or just idling, gathering their strength for the spring onslaught. Prices are very favourable compared with the UK, meals and drinks are perhaps 50% less. There is no mark-up during the tourist season, nor is there a difference in prices from residential Rab to the touristic Old Town.
The northern Adriatic is a meeting of cultures! The exuberance and passion of the Mediterranean meets the methodical understated humour of northern Europe. Palm trees and Holm Oak grow side by side, whilst the Green Lizards scamper through the undergrowth, the only creatures I saw moving with any rapidity during my stay!