Pottery, Fino and a little silver Renault
I furiously attacked the bedroom door! My Son had volunteered to drive me to Exeter Airport and his resistance to verticality was becoming disturbing. The early flight to Málaga was convenient in as much as you have almost a full day on arrival. The drawback is getting up early enough to catch the ruddy thing.
I had called him three times; the first two brought no response. The third was rewarded with a thumping on the floor. This was an old ploy, a diversion. I was supposed to think he was out of bed and getting dressed, it was in fact a device to give himself a couple of extra minutes in that delightful semi-conscious state he enjoyed in the early hours. Perseverance and nagging eventually paid-off and a bleary eyed scratching progeny emerged from the depth of his lair.
After some diligent loading we headed off in my Son’s little green Peugeot. The route to the airport included country lanes and along an old Roman road, which didn’t appear to have been maintained since AD410 and Honorius’s abandonment of Britain. I wasn’t going to get away scot-free after my berating and early calls; He had me where he wanted me. Corners were taken on two wheels, every pot-hole caused the suspension to buffet violently, my knuckles turned white as I gripped the safety strap.
The A30 was negotiated with rapid gear changes and acceleration that should have had the Peugeot Company offering sponsorships. If it had not been for the fear of tetanus I would have kissed the ground, the terminal building at last; shabby, run down, in need of a face lift but from my point of view, a wondrous edifice indeed!
The flight when viewed against my crazed ride to the airport was tranquil and uneventful apart from one startling fact. The aircraft I was travelling in was British, leather seats with plenty of leg-room it was really quite pleasant. A budget airline that doesn’t rely totally on 737s, that must be something of a novelty. Like all budget airlines your food has to be bought, not a problem on two hour flights, unless the people in front of you bring their own. Warm egg sandwiches given full reign in the recycled air of a small aircraft cabin brought back memories of the inside of my old school satchel. I would have preferred a more exotic aroma.
The Pyrenees slid past the port wing as Green Spain spread out below. At 500 knots it wasn’t long before the arid central regions gave way to the geometric olive groves of Andalucía. The aerial view of traffic on the wrong side of the road still filled me with dread. Although I have mastered the technique of driving on the right, the view from above is still somehow daunting.
I was still musing over the transition from left to right as the courtesy-coach delivered me to the car hire compound. I always use the same hire company, they have never let me down and they are cheap. A wonderful combination! As I signed the necessary forms and flashed my driver’s license I became aware of a hammering in the compound. There in the far corner was the little silver Renault that I had rented last year undergoing some feverish and impromptu panel beating. I was pleased to see it again, something familiar , a bond with my earlier visit.
As I dodged, swerved and cursed my way off the Málaga ring road and onto the N331 I asked myself “Why had I chosen Montilla this time”
Was it because it was a small town away from the coast and from the tourist areas? Or perhaps because it is a place to meet the genuine Spaniard, in his own environment, with his everyday pressures and needs. Not a bit of it Montilla is slap bang in the middle of the N331; it meant I wouldn’t get lost.
I was tired of being perpetually mislaid. The hotel I had chosen was the Alfar, marked on Autoroute software and alongside the main road. I would have to really excel myself in order to get lost this time. I suppose I should have used different criteria for planning the holiday, but any holiday is a gamble so my method must be as good as any!
The Hotel Alfar is on the left of the road when travelling west, so I should have used the small slip road on the right and then crossed both lanes of traffic. It is amazing how modern cars can recover from a skid, the driver of the car behind certainly had quick reactions, also a very colourful grasp of his native tongue; I still haven’t fully translated his observations.
The Hotel is a rambling rectangular affair with its longest side parallel to the road. The 38 rooms are all on the first floor, mine being in the rear of the building overlooking the swimming pool. It was only early May, so the pool was still empty, about as inviting as a closed pub.
Two girls shared reception duties during the day, bright, bubbly and friendly individuals. One evening one of the girls excitedly dragged me from the bar. She kept saying Los Beeratalis, that had me stumped I thought the Guardia Civil had caught up with me for ignoring the solid white line when I turned left. As I was led to reception the strains of Love Me Do emanated from a small radio. The Beatles. The kind hearted recepcionista thought I would like to hear them. Why? I am sure. Nostalgia? I appeared delighted and tapped along to the beat.
The rooms were large airy and comfortable, I looked for the flaw. Every hotel room I had stayed in had a flaw. At the Zuhayra in Zuheros, it was the bidet. Both tap and plug leaked, but the through flow of water kept my bottled beer cool. It didn’t take long to find it. The shower- head had broken away from its bracket, so I tied it on with a sock, it worked surprising well and it had the added advantage of giving the sock a wash. If anyone books into room 122, have a look for my sock its black, not that I want it back I would just like a sighting.
The food was Spanish and excellent. A bonus was the entertainment, this took the form of the English menu, it provided hours of enjoyment. Messers Milligan, Sellers and Seacombe would have approved. The translation looks as if it was via Latin; it was a work of art. The most unfortunate entries were the meat dishes from the Spanish carne via a schools edition Latin Dictionary and into the English as slaughter.
The bar, were I spent most of my time, was a wonderful place. Not because of the never ending supply of alcohol and food, a consideration of course, but because of the ambiance. Intricate tile-work depicting the pottery industry, after which the Hotel was named, the hanging hams and the big brass San Miguel pump all merged to produce a Spanish workaday atmosphere.
The two barmen were attentive rotund and jolly. One of them even learnt a few words of English to welcome me in the evening and before diner he would bring me samples of the main dishes so I could decide my meal. The revelation for me was the Fino, kept in a silver tea-pot and draped in wet tea-towels; it was superb. Delicate, dry and with an aroma which is the essence of Spain.
Now back in the UK I drink Fino rarely, partly because of the inferior quality and partly because of the vivid memories associated with the sherry; I do not want to degrade them with over use.
